“I’m not really qualified to be in this article,” Brian Fisher says before taking another sip of Ovum Riesling. It’s one of several natural wines that is on the list at the newly opened Entente. The restaurant is the first to have the 34-year-old chef’s name leading the bill. He’s terrified. My presence, under the veiled guise that I’m rounding up Chicago’s up-and-coming chefs, doesn’t help calm his nerves. The wine, though, does. “I just don’t feel like I’m there yet.”